Motorcycle History – Fun Facts For Kids
February 19, 2012 | 
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Kids, the first motorcycle sold was a Hildebrand and Wolfmuller. This was in 1894 when many kids rode bicycles…
Engines and Frames
Bicycle companies put a new invention, the internal combustion engine, onto their bicycles.
When new engines became more powerful the standard bicycle frames, wheels and chains could not handle them.
Bicycle builders decided to make frames made of steel. The steel frames did the job much as they do today.
Most Popular Motobikes
Before First World War, the largest motorcycle company in the world was Indian Motors. They produced 20,000 motorbikes a year.
By 1920, Harley-Davidson sold more street bikes in more than 67 countries.
Today, Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, and Yamaha are the most popular with enthusiasts. Harley-Davidson is still a driving force in the United States.
BMW, KTM, Triumph, Aprilia, Moto Guzzi and Ducati are also popular new street rides to buy…
Parts
Coloring pages kids, a steel or aluminum frame holds modern motorcycle parts and accessories.
Telescopic forks hold the front wheel, and disc brakes. Expect a one-cylinder to six-cylinder gasoline powered engine.
The engine is coupled to a manual, five- or six-speed sequential transmission with a swing arm-mounted rear wheel by a chain, drive shaft or belt.
A wind tunnel helps the engineers mimic real-life riding conditions. Different racing speeds test seating and body positions.
Experts can judge the best riding positions for racing bikes, off-road motorbikes and street cycles…
Accessories and Gear
Designed for comfort are various modern motorcycle attachments:
A “Fairing” is a plastic or fiberglass shell. It fits over the front frame of the bike. A fairing helps move the cycle smoothly and protects the engine in an accident. Fairings on touring rides improve your comfort and alertness on long rides. They reduce the harsh wind, cold and rain on your body…
“Windshields or windscreens” are built into a fairing or be attached to an unfaired motorbike. They are of transparent high-impact plastic. They direct airflow over or around your head. If you would like to raise and lower the windscreen with the push of a button, get an electric windscreen.
“Saddlebags or Panniers” rest on either side of the rear wheel to carry parts, tools, and, or travel gear.
“Heated Hand grips and Heated Seats” keep you warm in the cold and during night rides.
“Luggage Racks” remove the need for backpacks. They are a more secure and safe way to add carrying capacity to your rocket cycle…
A “Sidecar” is a one-wheeled partially covered seat. The sidecar attaches to the side of your motorcycle. Your big sister can sit in it and ride with you. Just remember to bring her back.
A “Trunk” is a storage box. Above and behind the seat the trunk is mounted…
Motorcycle Clubs
Clubs and organizations are popular. You can meet new rider kids, their buddies and their families.
The clubs are organized according countries, states, cities and neighborhoods. Individual motor bike makes or motorbike models have fan clubs.
You can join, if you qualify, groups like the American Motorcyclist Association, Harley Owners Group, Moto Guzzi National Owners Club, and Gold Wing Road Riders…
We will wrap it up…
Motorcycle kids – boys, you did a good job. You learned about Motorcycle:
Inventions Clubs Accessories and Gear Parts Popular Motorcycles Engines and Frames
You can now give good answers to questions about the history of motorcycles. The End.
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My Pilot Light Won’t Stay Lit – What Now?
I went to a Heating and Air Conditioning customer’s home the other day. They had called me to tell me that their heater was not coming on. It is December and getting colder in northern California. I am a compassionate guy so I headed over there after I finished with my regular job.
I arrived at the home and went to where the heater is located in a closet in the home. (yours maybe in the attic, basement, or garage) I removed the door and found a 30 year old Heating unit. This unit has a standing pilot light, a flame that burns continuously, and it was not lit. After trying to light the pilot light unsuccessfully I determined that pilot light would not stay lit.
The older Heating furnaces with standing pilot lights have a thermocouple, that is designed to sense the pilot light flame. That is how the pilot stays lit when you remove your hand from the dial, while trying to relight the pilot. If the thermocouple fails the pilot will not stay lit and the burners will not light so the furnace will not heat the house. You can visually check the thermocouple as well as the pilot flame. Look at the pilot flame while holding the knob in the start position.
1. Is the pilot flame floating (if it is have a Heating serviceperson check the gas valve)
2. Is the copper lead bent or kinked
3. Is the thermocouple insulation damaged
4. Is the thermocouple tip dirty
You can clean the tip by lightly sanding it. Also make sure it has not slid down out of the flame. If you feel the flame is aimed properly and the thermocouple is clean and there are no visible signs of damage then damage is on the inside, remove it. You can take it to an appliance parts and service dealer where they will sell you the correct part or you can call a heating service person to come replace it for you.
How to Make Jerky – Step-by-Step Instructions
Before the invention of refrigeration and preservatives, the only way to preserve meat for long periods of time was to dry it into jerky. Drying meat into jerky is possibly the oldest way of preserving meat and jerky dates back to the earliest civilizations.
Traditionally, jerky was made from long, thin strips of meat that was salted and dried in the sun or over a small smokey fire. Although jerky can still be made in this way, techniques have become more sophisticated in our day. Jerky is still an extremely popular food and millions of people still enjoy jerky as a delicious, convenient, and healthy source of protein. Jerky is perfect for hikers, campers, or just an easy, non-messy snack.
Today, jerky is most commonly made from beef, but jerky can also be made from poultry, fish, and wild game such as deer (venison), elk, buffalo, bison, moose, caribou, antelope, and other game. Many varieties of seasonings can be used to make different flavors of jerky. Salt is traditionally used as the main preservative for jerky, but acids such as vinegar and citrus juice in marinades can also help to kill bacteria. Jerky can be made without salt, but its shelf life will be drastically reduced.
Store-bought jerky comes in many flavors with any number of chemicals, additives, and preservatives and can be surprisingly expensive. However, you can make your own jerky at home very easily. Most people are surprised at just how easy it is to make delicious jerky that is much cheaper and healthier than mass-produced jerky available in stores. So by making your own jerky, you not only control the ingredients, you also save money.
Jerky Making: Step-by-Step Instructions
Select a cut of meat. Choosing a lean cut will save time later. For beef jerky, cuts like like sirloin, top round, eye of round, etc. are good choices. You can also use venison or virtually any other type of meat to make jerky.
Trim all of the noticeable fat from your cut of meat because any fat will cause the jerky to spoil much faster.
Slice your meat into very thin strips from 1/8″ to 1/4″ thick. Cutting the meat into thin slices dramatically shortens drying time. You can cut jerky with just a knife and cutting board, but there are some convenient tools you can use for slicing meat, such as a Jerky Slicing Tray, a Hand-Crank Manual Jerky Slicer, or an electric meat slicer. Tip: Slicing meat is easier if you freeze the meat for about 30 to 60 minutes before slicing. You can cut with or against the grain, but some find that strips cut against the grain are easier to chew.
Marinate the meat in a marinade or solution of your choice. You can follow a recipe to make your own marinade or purchase any number of ready-made marinades. Marinating is optional because the additional moisture can make dehydration take longer, and the resulting jerky might be stickier. Soaking in soy sauce or teriyaki sauce is a favorite. Place in the refrigerator for 4 – 24 hours to allow the meat absorb the flavor.
Season the meat with the dry seasonings of your choice. You can follow a jerky recipe or choose from a wide variety of available dry jerky seasoning mixes. A mixture of salt, pepper, oregano, marjoram, basil and thyme is tasty. You will find that many seasonings work well and it is a personal preference. I personally enjoy jerky with a lot of pepper. You will need to experiment to find your favorites. Just sprinkle and rub the dry seasonings onto both sides of the sliced meat.
Dehydrate the meat. Meat is dehydrated by applying heat and continuous air flow. The control of both the temperature and the airflow is very important. If the humidity is too high and the temperature is too low, the jerky will dry too slowly and it could spoil. If the temperature is too high, the jerky will cook too fast, harden on the outside but still be too moist on the inside, and once again, it could spoil.
There are two common methods for drying jerky; in a conventional oven or in a food dehydrator. Whichever method you use, be sure to leave enough room between pieces to allow air to flow around the meat. Avoid letting the meat touch if possible.
Making Jerky in a Conventional Oven
Preheat your oven to 140 degrees. Remember you are not cooking the meat; you are simply removing the moisture. Spray all the racks you will use with a non stick cooking spray. Without this non-stick spray, you will be left with jerky that cannot be removed from the racks and that will essentially be inedible. Spread the meat evenly on wire racks in the oven. You can also use metal racks other than the oven racks with a drip pan underneath to make cleanup much faster.
Leave the oven door open slightly to permit moisture to escape. Since temperatures, humidity levels, and slice thickness will vary, there can be no set time for the process to complete. Usually jerky takes from 6 to 12 hours. Check the consistency of the jerky regularly after 6 hours until it meets your satisfaction. You might have to cut into the jerky to ensure that it is not raw inside. You want the jerky to be a deep brown or burgundy color and still be flexible. As jerky cools, it will get more stiff and brittle so you don’t want to over dry.
Making Jerky in a Food Dehydrator
Food Dehydrators are excellent for making jerky. Dehydrators are inexpensive to buy and are safer and cheaper to use than the kitchen oven. Additionally dehydrators make less of a mess and are easier to clean up.
Spray the dehydrator trays with a non-stick cooking spray before placing on the strips of meat. This keeps the meat from sticking and helps in the clean up of the trays. Season the jerky strips just as above and drain them well before placing them on the dehydrator trays.
A full dehydrator can usually process a large batch of jerky in 6 to 12 hours. Just like with drying in a conventional oven, temperatures, humidity levels, and slice thickness will vary, so the drying time will vary. You will want to check the jerky regularly after 6 hours to see if its done. You want the jerky to be a deep brown or burgundy color and still be flexible. As jerky cools, it will get more stiff and brittle so you don’t want to over dry. The thicker cuts will take more time, so as the thin pieces are done, just remove them. Tip: A rule of thumb is that 4 pounds of raw meat makes about one pound of jerky.
Store the finished jerky in plastic bags and store in the refrigerator or freezer until ready to eat. To be safe, it’s best to enjoy the fresh homemade jerky within one week of its preparation. If you make it right, it’s delicious!Tip: If you wish to store your jerky for longer, use a vacuum sealer to store the jerky in vacuum bags. Other storage methods allow exposure to oxygen and moisture, which encourages the growth of bacteria. In vacuum sealed bags, jerky can be kept for months. Vacuum sealed jerky stored in a freezer can last even longer.
Alternative: Jerky Snack Strips & Sticks
Instead of making jerky from sliced meat, a popular form of jerky is the jerky snack stick or snack strip, which is made from seasoned ground meat formed into strips or round sticks. To make this jerky snack, you first need to purchase extra lean ground meat or grind lean cuts of meat with a meat grinder. The next step is to mix the seasonings into the ground meat by hand or with a meat mixer. The seasoned ground meat can then be extruded into the snack sticks or strips using a Jerky Gun or Jerky Cannon. Finally, these jerky snacks are dehydrated on trays in a conventional oven or food dehydrator as described above.
Who knew it was so easy to make your own jerky? Enjoy!
Goat Barn Plans – One Basic Role That it is Made to Accomplish When Building a Goat Barn
Goat barn plans must be made to accomplish one basic role: protection. Shelters protect your animals from extreme temperatures, rain, and provide them with a safe place to sleep at night. Goats are highly adapted to rough weather and terrain. But by providing them protection from these elements, the stresses the goats experience are lessened, thus they become more productive.
Good goat barn plans are able to keep too much moisture out. Respiratory diseases can result when goats inhale too much humidity from the surroundings. Wood is a perfect material because it doesn’t accumulate water, unlike metal or concrete. Open building are also good in keeping the moisture out during the cold months and keep maximum airflow during the summer months. Trees are good insulators and keep your animals cool during hot days.
An open building with a lot of circulating air also prevents the buildup of ammonia from urine and feces. Bedding is also needed as floor insulation and also acts as litter to prevent wetting of the floor. Bedding materials can be spaced wood boards, sawdust, shavings, paddy husk, hulls, and bagasse. These different types of bedding have different capacities to absorb urine. They are also cheap and readily available. As much as possible no concrete floors must be used. Installing a sleeping platform helps to keep the goats clean and dry.
In some countries, goat barn plans include slatted board walls and floors to allow good airflow and also makes cleaning easier. Stilted barns are also good ideas because this offers some protection against parasites that live on the soil.
Roofing materials can be anywhere from hay to metal. Hay and straw roofing are good insulators, providing protection during both the summer and winter months. Metals must be paint white to reflect sunlight and prevent heating the barn.
In making goat barn plans, it is also wise to consult experts because they can decide the best construction. Dependence of the barn from factors such as a sloping ground and poor drainage can be addressed effectively by a competent architect or engineer. For relatively simple work, ordinary carpenters can also give very useful information.
Air Conditioning – Cleaning the Condenser Coil
Air Conditioning works by exchanging heat from inside a building to the outside air. To do this some very basic refrigeration principles need to take place. One of the most critical pieces that make this happen is the condenser coil. This is usually the aluminum coil the surrounds the air conditioning compressor.
What happens inside this outdoor unit is a very basic state change of the refrigerant inside the air conditioning unit. The refrigerant that changes from a liquid to a gas inside the indoor coil moves to the outside where the compressor compresses the gas under high pressure. When this happens the gas also becomes very hot. The hot gas then leaves the compressor to start traveling through the many feet of tubing in the condenser coil. As the gas cools it changes back to a liquid form going back indoors to start the cycle all over again.
Big problems start when the condenser coil becomes so blocked up with dirt that the hot gas in the condenser coil does not cool enough to change the hot gas back to a liquid form. If this happens the cooling process does not happen and then air conditioner runs but is not cooling. The compressor starts to get very hot and the ultimate result will be the death of a compressor. For these reasons the condenser coil must be kept clean and free of debris at all times when the air conditioner is running. Cleaning the coil is a fairly simple process, Here are a few guidelines to follow when doing this.
To clean the coil a few simple tools are needed. A garden hose with a nozzle, wrenches to remove the condenser fan, a garden sprayer for applying the cleaning solution. The first thing is to disconnect the power to the outdoor unit. There should be a disconnect switch of some type near the condenser. Then remove the fan from the condenser unit. Usually this will be the top of the unit. The fan can usually be laid aside carefully without disconnecting the wires to the motor. Carefully wet down the coil with the garden hose. If you have very high pressure water where you live be careful that the water pressure does not bend over the fins on the coil. These are very thin and fragile. If they get bent over the air will not be able to freely flow through them. Using the cleaning solution from the garden sprayer, coat he inside and the outside of the coil. Let the solution work on the dirt build up before washing it off. If you use a foaming type coil cleaner then let the foam cook the dirt out of the coil. Then use the garden hose to wash the dirt out of the coil. I often work from the inside spraying out through the coil. This is the reverse of the usual air flow and it washes the dirt out easier. Rinse the coil with water till it is clean with no more dirt or cleaner coming out. Replace the fan and start the unit back up.
The cleaning solution for the condenser coil can be any good household cleaner. Many automotive type radiator cleaners will work well. For very dirty condensers it would be good to buy a foaming coil cleaner made specifically for cleaning condenser coils. A local plumbing and heating supply house should stock coil cleaning solutions. Most of these solutions are very strong chemicals. Be sure to wear gloves and eye protection when working with them.
By keeping your air conditioning condenser coil clean, you will help to have your air conditioner running at the best efficiency possible. A clean condenser coil is one of the easiest ways to save electric while running your central air conditioning system. A clean coil will allow your compressor to run cooler and help it to last longer. Your condenser coil should be thoroughly cleaned at least once a year. If in you live in very dirty areas like along a dirt road you may need to clean the condenser coil more often. Also do not do things that would clog up the coil. Blowing grass clippings into the condenser coil is one common thing that happens. Keep shrubbery from growing into and around the condenser coil. This stops the air flow to the coil. Large flowers planted too close to the coil can do the same thing.
As you can see there are many things that can cause your air conditioner to work harder and cost you more money. By taking a the time to look over things and give it a cleaning you can save a lot of money.
FAQ on Modifying the Toyota Supra
What does BPU(TM) stand for? (BPU(TM) is a trademark of SupraStore.com)
Basic Performance Upgrades. These modifications are: A full length three inch down-pipe (with or with-out high flow cats), 3″ (75mm) or bigger cat-back exhaust system, raised boost (18psi), and the required boost cut eliminator (GReddy BCC) needed to achieve that boost without activating the factory fuel cut-off at 14-15psi. These are the modifications that have proven to provide the best HP-to-$$$ ratio.
What does the + mean when someone says BPU(TM)+? And what is APU?
That stands for any additional power producing modifications other than the basic BPU(TM) modifications. One “+” refers to Adj. Cam Gears and under-drive pulleys, the second “+” refers to a Fuel controller, ECU upgrade, etc. For instance, a Supra with the BPU(TM) modifications, plus a front-mount intercooler, would be called BPU(TM)+. If you added cam gears to that, it would be BPU(TM)++, and so on. The “BPU(TM)” term is used until you have an upgraded turbo(s). Then it is referred to as APU, advanced performance upgrades. This designation pretty much covers every modification that can be performed.
What are the first engine modifications I should perform?
I recommend starting with raising the boost of the stock turbos to roughly 18psi. This will require a quality boost gauge and a boost cut eliminator (GReddy BCC). You will achieve 15 or so PSI with the stock Down Pipe in place. This will provide an addition of approximately 30rwhp. After those modifications are completed, it would be a logical next step to install the Down Pipe and Cat-Back Exhaust at the same time. You will now be at full BPU(TM).
What do all the various “Free Mods” do?
There are many different “free mods” for the Supra TT. I will cover just a few of them here. The ones I will cover fall into three categories, boost control, EGR disabling, and TTC or True Twin Conversion.
Three of the boost control mods are: Bleeder-T Mod, Clamp Mod, and the VSV Bypass Mod. Each of these modifications raise boost levels without the use of a boost controller. But you have to keep a close eye on your boost gauge, and make sure they are not allowing the turbos to boost too high (18psi is a safe level).
The next mods, are the true twin conversion mods (or TTC). This modification disables the Sequential twin turbo operation, and causes the turbos to run constantly in parallel (both on at the same time). This is supposed to allow for slightly better mid-range power (before the secondary turbo would normally come online) and allows for a smoother power band, without the abrupt boost increase caused by the transition from primary to secondary operation. However, this does noticeably decrease low-end power, and increases exhaust noise levels, and therefore may not be desirable on the street. Two types of the TTC mod are, the traditional TTC mod which includes 2 methods, wiring the actuators, or installing a one way valve, and the Electronic TTC mod (ETTC).
The last mod I will discuss is the EGR mod. This disables the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system, which is meant for emissions, and therefore, this modification is for off-road use only. This mod is supposed to prevent the super heating of the number 5 and 6 cylinders, which may cause burnt valves.
How much power will my car make at BPU(TM)?
It varies from car-to-car, and the conditions as well as tuning. Most BPU(TM)-only Supra Twin Turbos, dyno between 370 and 410 horsepower at the rear wheels. This is usually achieved with moderate temperatures, a reset ECU (to erase anything bad the ECU may have learned), and often a little bit of high-octane un-leaded race fuel. On the street, power will be reduced, especially in poor weather, but at least 90 percent of the power should be retained.
What kind of 1/4 mile ETs and trap speeds should I run at BPU(TM)-only?
It varies WIDELY depending on driver skill. As well as track conditions, elevation above sea level, ambient temperatures, humidity, and pre-race preparation. But most fall between 12.3 to 12.9 ets with 112 to 119mph trap speeds on street tires. Times can drop well into the 11s with drag radials, a good driver, and good conditions, as well as proper pre-race preparation.
What is a BPU(TM)’d Supra TT’s top speed?
Speeds in the mid-high 180mph range should be achievable. Once the speed-limiter is disabled, by pulling the “TRAC” fuse of course.
Will the life of my Engine and Drivetrain be adversely affected with the BPU(TM) mods?
Yes, but not by a significant amount. If the car is maintained properly, and the car is treated with some respect for the components, you should maintain much of the power train’s life. Which considering the fact that the Supra is by far one of the most reliable and durable sports cars, it will last longer than most well maintained STOCK sports cars. The only Drivetrain components that will see a significantly shortened life will be the stock clutch. It will more than likely not last much longer than 8-10k miles once at BPU(TM). This especially holds true if the car is making repeated high speed runs using 5th and 6th gear at wide open throttle. If your stock clutch has high mileage on it, or is already starting to slip, you will need to plan on a new high-performance clutch. Also the stock turbos will be subject to a somewhat shortened life span (how short will depend on how you drive and maintain the car, as well as how much boost you will run)
What’s the reliability of a 600hp Supra Turbo?
Chassis, electrical, and suspension components should see little effect on reliability on street driven Supras. The stock 2JZ-GTE engine should hold up pretty well to this power level. Just how long depends on maintenance, and how hard you drive it, and how often. But typically Supras can go for years at this power level. The transmission reliability will depend on whether it’s an Automatic or Manual. A stock automatic will not hold this much power, a built transmission will be required, and it’s reliability will depend on it’s design and construction. The 6spd Manual should hold up just fine, as well as the rear differential and axles.
The only real reliability concerns at these low power levels would surround the actual modifications you perform. Excluding installation short-comings, the components utilized, even very high quality ones, may fall short of factory component reliability, as the built in compromises that exist in everything, would lean more towards the side of ultimate performance, than of ultimate reliability (Keep in mind we are talking about a Toyota here, whose reliabilty standards are exceptionally high) This may include fuel system components, turbo components, and especialy electronic wizardry. Basically a set-up that is either VERY well concieved, or utilizes OE components as much as possible, without over burdening them, would posses *near* stock reliability. And tuning of the components, and component selection, and matching, would play a HUGE role in this.
What are the power limits of the various factory components (Differential, Transmission, Motor, etc.)?
There have really not been enough failures to really pin point a limit for the various power-train components. The motor could fail at factory power levels if it was running dangerously lean. But when well tuned, the motors internals (Pistons, Rods, Crank, Head Gasket etc) are reliable to 700rwhp. But of course at these power levels, if the engine is not set-up and tuned properly, it is literally a bomb waiting to go off, however this would be just as true with a built motor. Some owners have pushed their stock internals to the limit and have well exceeded 800rwhp, and even approached 900rwhp. I still don’t understand how such an over built motor made it past the bean counters at Toyota Corporate.
The 6-speed Getrag is ridiculously strong for an OE transmission. Its limit’s will be affected greatly by driving technique, such as launching, and whether or not power shifting is used. Even driven hard, the Getrag should hold up reasonably well with 700RWHP. If you treat it with some respect, it should be able to handle around 800RWHP or more, although great care and respect will need to be practiced at those levels.
Differential, axle, CV Joint, and drive shaft failures are a VERY rare occurrence. So I don’t have much info on their failure limits. On street tires, it would be almost impossible to break any of these components at ANY power level. The tires would spin before they would put the driveline under that kind of strain. The tires act sort of like a circuit breaker. If you run drag slicks, this does not hold true of course, yet they have proven themselves to be 10 and even 9 second capable.
Will drivability, interior noise levels, and low-end power be adversely affected with the BPU(TM) mods?
Drivability is not adversely affected. Interior noise level depends on the exhaust system you choose. Some will make it far louder; some will actually make it quieter. But most are just a little bit louder than stock. But the added dBs are also combined with a MUCH sweeter exhaust note, so it’s definitely worth it. And the interior of the Supra is pretty quiet anyway, so on the highway, it will be VERY livable. As far as low-end power goes, the down-pipe will greatly decrease Turbo Lag. So low-end power and response is much improved over stock.
Will emissions be adversely affected by the BPU(TM) mods?
As long as a high-flow cat is used, emissions should not be effected, and you should still pass visual inspection. If you run without catalytic converters, you are doing so at your own risk, and you would not pass visual or emissions testing.
Will fuel mileage be adversely affected by the BPU(TM) mods?
If driven calmly, as in light throttle, mileage should not be significantly affected. Mileage will greatly decrease during however, if you drive “vigorously”, more power equals more burned fuel I am afraid.
Should I install an “Intake” (Open Element Filter)?
This is a bit of a yes and no answer. The stock filter assembly is a flow restriction, and an open element intake would increase potential flow. However, it will also draw in more heated engine compartment air, which can hurt performance. My advice is to either modify the stock filter box, or install a cool air induction box, like the Max Air. An added bonus of the open element filters, is that they allow you to easily hear the primary turbo and by-pass valve.
What about the stock intercooler?
The stock intercooler does a decent job up till about 17psi on the stock turbos, after that you would probably notice a significant gain, especially in warmer temperatures, with a nice front mount intercooler. However, keep in mind it will block some of the airflow to the radiator, as well as decreasing response slightly.
Should I replace the factory rubber Intercooler hoses with aftermarket metal hoses?
It wouldn’t hurt. But it won’t help a lot either. At the most you may slightly increase throttle response, but at least it will look nicer.
What about the fuel system, are the stock injectors and fuel pump large enough for BPU(TM)?
Yes, the stock fuel system is very safe and reliable to 450RWHP, although I would recommend a fuel pulsation damper bypass. Anything over that, and I would highly recommend having the car dyno’d, and using a wide-band O2 sensor (not a cheap A/F gauge connected to the stock O2) to check the fuel ratio at your high boost setting. 11.5:1 would be a safe fuel ratio.
What are the stock injectors rated at?
540cc/min
Would the Supra benefit from a fuel controller?
BPU(TM)’d Supras run a little on the rich side as far as fuel ratios go. This hurts power. What it does do is provide a safety margin that makes engine damage through detonation unlikely. If you get a fuel controller, and tune it properly (on a dyno, with an accurate EGT gauge, and a high band O2 (The Stock O2 sensors are not accurate), then you should be able to gain a noticeable amount of power. One of the most popular electronic fuel controllers is the A’PEXi S-AFC. The Fields SFC is good too.
What should I use to increase my boost level, an Electronic Boost Controller, or a Manual BC?
Using an EBC is the safest way to raise boost, it will prevent spiking and over-boosting. But it really comes down to your budget. If you can afford an EBC, get one. If you can’t, go with a MBC. And always keep an eye on that boost gauge. And whatever you are using to control boost, remember to not get carried away, I don’t recommend going regularly over 18psi.
What is the best Electronic Boost Controller?
There really is no BEST. Although the A’PEXi AVC-R is a nice unit, it provides much more control over boost than other EBCs, but it is also more complex to install, and tune. The new Blitz unit is also nice. Most of the large manufacturers make decent units. Just avoid fuzzy-logic equipped models if you still have the sequential stock turbos, they will become “confused” by the unnatural behavior of the sequential system.
When installing my EBC, do I connect it to both of the Turbo’s Wastegates?
The Primary Turbo is the only one with a wastegate. When in full twin turbo mode, the boost of both Turbos is regulated by the primary turbo’s wastegate. So, only connect it to the Primary’s.
Some people say I need to replace my ECU with a reprogrammed one, instead of just using a boost controller. Do I?
Reprogrammed ECUs for the Supra TT are VERY $$$. They are in the $1200 range. And they have not been proven to provide a significant increase in performance or safety on BPU(TM) level cars. Their merit shows itself on cars with upgraded Turbo(s). Just be sure you buy your ECU, or have it reprogrammed by a reputable shop that knows what they are doing. And have it tailored to your particular car (Driving habits, and Mods). And I would also recommend taking a look at the AEM Programmable system.
What is a safe boost level to run at BPU(TM)?
The general consensus is 17-18psi. Some people have taken it higher, but I don’t recommend it if you don’t have the money for a turbo replacement/upgrade.
Which Down-Pipe is recommended?
The RMM (or Rod Millen Motorsports) Cat-less Downpipe is the most commonly used. However many other brands exist. Some down-pipes, such as the Random Technology DP, feature an emissions legal high-flow catalytic converter.
Will a high-flow cat hurt performance?
It will have some effect on power output, but not a lot. Its exact effect on HP is not clear, but it probably costs a few hp at the most, maybe 5-15hp at BPU(TM) power levels.
What is a Down-Pipe?
It is the section of the exhaust system that connects the outlet of the Turbocharger’s Turbine section to the “Cat-Back” exhaust system. The Downpipe is also where the two catalytic converters are located, as well as the O2 sensor (or sensors in OBD-II cars).
I have an OBD2 car. Can I still install a Down-Pipe?
Yes. But unless the DP has a Catalyst and a second location for an O2 sensor, you will trip your check engine light, unless you get one of those O2 “black boxes”.
Which Exhausts are the loudest?
The Tanabe Racing Medallion, and HKS Hiper Titanium seem to be the two loudest systems.
Which Exhausts are the quietest?
The Tanabe Hyper Medallion, the discontinued Tanabe G-Power Medallion and the GReddy (SP) Street Performance seem to be the quietest. At anything less than full throttle, they are no louder than stock. But at full throttle they seem to “wake up” a bit.
What are some recommended exhaust systems?
It depends on your personal preferences. Below I will break down some of my recommendations based on certain combinations of preferences.
Subtle Styling / Very Low Cost:
-Random Technology (75mm, full stainless steel)
Subtle Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-GReddy Street Performance (80mm)
-Tanabe Super Hyper Medallion (80mm, full stainless steel, 50-state legal)
Subtle Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-ATR (75mm, full stainless steel)
Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:
-HKS Dragger II (85mm)
Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-GReddy Power Extreme (80-94mm)
-HKS Super Dragger (95mm)
Tasteful Appearance / Moderate Sound Level / High Cost / Super Light:
-Veilside Tear Drop Titanium (90mm, full titanium)
Tasteful-Wild Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-TRD 2nd gen.
Wild Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:
-A’PEXi N1
-HKS Hiper (75mm)
Wild Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-A’PEXi GT Spec (95mm, full stainless steel)
-Blitz NUR Spec (80mm, full stainless steel)
-HKS Hiper Carbon/Titanium (75mm, CF wrapped muffler, titanium tip)
Wild Styling / High Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-Tanabe Racing Medallion (80mm, 50 state legal)
Wild Styling / High Sound Level / High Cost / High Flow:
-HKS Hiper Titanium (104mm, titanium muffler)
What is the cheapest route to replacing the DP and Cat-Back?
Have a custom performance exhaust shop fabricate a complete 3″ exhaust system (Turbo-to-Tip). It should cost well less that $400. And then you can use the muffler and exhaust tip of your choice.
Which Fuel Cut Eliminator is recommended?
The GReddy BCC (Boost Cut Controller) is highly recommended.
What does the Fuel Cut Eliminator do?
The factory ECU is programmed to activate a fuel cut if the manifold pressure exceeds 14-15psi. It does this as a safety measure to prevent what the ECU sees as over boosting. The Fuel Cut Eliminator effectively eliminates, or at least raises the cut to a higher pressure. A reprogrammed ECU can also eliminate this function.
Which boost gauge is recommended?
Any high quality boost gauge will work well. Accuracy is the important feature to look for. Autometer gauges are a good value. The Japanese gauges, A’PEXi, GReddy, HKS, etc., have more features, but at a much higher price.
Where can the boost gauge be installed in the interior?
If you want to mount it in the dash, the two most popular places are the Clock location (which holds a 52mm gauge), and the Air Vent beside it (which holds a 60mm gauge). You can also use an A-Pillar gauge pod.
What is the stock boost pressure?
11-12psi
Are Cam Gears a good modification for the Supra TT?
Yes, they have been shown to provide a 5-15rwhp gain on a BPU(TM)’d car. But to extract their potential, you must have them tuned, by a knowledgeable tuner, on a dyno. And most of the power gains will be seen on the exhaust side. I also recommend buying cam gears which feature 5-bolts.
Are Under Drive Pulley(s) a good modification for the Supra TT?
Most of the crank-shaft under-drive pulleys require the removal of the factory torsional damper.
This is from MKIV.com :”this is NOT an external (harmonic) balancer, as the crankshaft is fully balanced, rather it dampens both the axial twisting couples produced by the firing pulses, and the radial bending moment from the accessory drive belt.”
Basically this device provides crutial isolation between the engine driven accessories, and the crankshaft. However, removal of this can provide a 10-15rwhp gain, but at a cost for long term use.
Do I need to upgrade the ignition when upgrading to BPU(TM)?
The stock ignition system is VERY capable of supplying enough fire for a BPU(TM)’d car. The stock ignition system uses 6 large coils, one for each cylinder. So the system is capable of supporting VERY impressive HP levels. You may need to change to a colder range plug with a tighter gap (see below).
What about the spark plugs, which are recommended at BPU(TM) or higher level?
Basically you want similar plugs as stock, but a cooler heat range and a smaller gap. The stock plugs are NGK BKR6EP-11 (2978) and are platinum tipped and have a .044 (1.1mm) gap. The ideal NGK replacement for a modified Supra would be the BKR7E (6097). It is one range cooler (the ’7′), is non-platinum tipped (the lack of the ‘p’) and has a smaller .0315 gap (lack of the ‘-11′). This plug is also called the NGK 6097 and they are fairly inexpensive. Platinum tipped plugs are not desired for high power applications, Iridium plugs are more prefered. Unfortunately their doesn’t seem to be a BKR8E which might be better for high-HP Supras.
Another good plug to try is the Denso Iridium IK22 or IK24. These plugs may last longer than the above mentioned NGKs, but are also 6 times as expensive. The stock replacement plug would be the IK20, the IK22 is one step cooler, and the IK24 is two steps cooler than stock. The IK22 would be good for ~400rwhp to ~600rwhp. The IK24 would probably be a good choice above that. Two other plugs commonly used are the NGK 3330 (BCPR7ES) which differ much more from the specifications of the stock plugs than NGK 6097. Also the Rapid Fire #5 used to be very popular, but are more expensive, don’t last as long, and have fallin out of favor. Both of those plugs have been known to cause slight stumbling at idle. Plugs on Supras do not live long, usually around 5,000-10,000 miles. So I recommend replacing them with every other oil change.
What is the HKS VPC and GCC?
It is an electronic device, which electronically and physically removes the highly restrictive mass airflow sensor from the intake tract. VPC stands for Vein Pressure Converter. The HKS GCC is a device that allows further fine-tuning of the VPC.
Do I need an after-market Blow off Valve?
It is not absolutely required, but it is a good idea. The factory by-pass valve is prone to failure, and an aftermarket BOV is probably a wise investment for preventing turbo damaging compressor surge. And it sounds cool too. However, it must be noted that if you still have the factory mass-air flow sensor, a blow-off valve, which is vented to the atmosphere, may cause stumbling between shifts.
Can I run Nitrous Oxide on the Supra TT, even if I am already at BPU(TM) power levels?
Yes. Most people run 50-75 shot wet manifold systems. If you want to run a higher shot than this, you might want to consider a well-designed direct port system. I have seen as much as a 200-shot used on one of these systems, and an upgraded fuel system would be a must.
450hp just isn’t enough, what can I do?
Ah the possibilities Basically you are only limited by your imagination, and your wallet. You know what they say, speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?
The real power lies in Single and Twin turbo upgrades, and the options are limitless. You can either build a mild motor that puts out 450 RWHP all day long with instant boost response, or a 1000+ RWHP monster.
Unfortunately, things start getting more difficult after simple BPU(TM) modifications. Modification becomes more than “bolt on Downpipe, gain 50hp”. Things like tuning, parts selection, and matching combinations of parts become much more important. However, this is the case with ANY high HP car. Actually, even at exceptionally high power levels, the Supra TT is still easier to extract power from than almost any other performance car. But it should be kept in mind, that it wouldn’t be as simple as the BPU(TM) bolt-ons.
If you just want something that will toast that pesky Viper GTS. Then focus on a mild single turbo upgrade (T04S04, T60-1, SP57-SP61). Along with this, you should install a front mount intercooler, a fuel controller, fuel pulsation damper bypass and EGT gauge. This is assuming you have done all the BPU(TM) mods, plus BOV, EBC, Cam Gears. With tuning, and a few odds and ends, you should be able to pull 450-500 RWHP (490-580 crank HP) numbers while on a stock fuel system (assuming it is in great condition). This would be a total investment of approximately $6,700-$11,500 in engine/electronic components (also includes the proper gauges). If you already have the BPU(TM) mods or FMIC, etc., you will spend less than this. The difference in prices reflects the cost of higher end parts and addition of a HKS VPC to replace the restrictive stock MAF.
The next level would require a completely upgraded fuel system, and performance cams would be recommended, as well as further electronics (programmable engine management such as the AEM, or VPC/GCC/ECU combo, etc.). This would allow you to run much larger turbos and injectors. You can make it past the 700RWHP range without needing to replace the internals of the motor with stronger components, even at these power levels, if properly tuned and maintained you should retain a fair amount of reliability while still on the stock internals, as some people have eclipsed the 800RWHP level while still running stock bottom ends in their Supras. If you choose to go ahead and build up the bottom end, then the skies are the limit as far as power goes. Just make sure to have part selection, installation, and tuning done by competent and experienced persons. Although this should hold true at ANY level of modification.
Should I install a Turbo Timer?
Absolutely. Unless you don’t mind sitting in your car while it idles down every single time you need to turn the car off. A Turbo timer keeps the engine running for a preset time once you turn off the ignition. So you can remove your keys, and lock up the car and not have to worry about it, it will shut off on it’s own. This is important for the life of the turbos. If the turbos are not given time to cool down, it can overheat the oil and cause coking which will block oil flow to the turbos and damage bearings and cook seals.
How much is the Supra’s power output affected by changes in ambient temperatures?
Very noticeably, just as with most turbo cars, the Supra Twin Turbo can be very temperature sensitive. Especially with the stock turbos and intercooler. On a BPU(TM) car, I would not be surprised to see a 10 percent reduction between 50-60deg temperatures, and 90deg plus temperatures
Will the stock clutch hold the power levels of a BPU(TM) car?
It depends on the condition and wear on the stock clutch. If it is in good condition, yes, it will hold the power, pretty well in fact, although you may experience clutch slip while at full boost in high gears such as 5th and 6th. If you drive vigorously, meaning you run at high boost frequently, then the life of the stocker will be GREATLY shortened. Be surprised if you see an extra 10,000 miles after BPU(TM).
Can I resurface my flywheel when replacing the clutch?
It is not recommended. Buy a new Toyota Flywheel.
Can I install a lightweight flywheel?
Yes, but be aware that they can create a lot of noise at idle, and can transmit more vibrations and shock to the expensive Getrag transmission.
Why is pulling the TRAC fuse beneficial over just turning it off with the switch on the center console?
Just pushing the “Trac Off” button only partially disables the Trac system. It disables the Trac throttle body and TRAC funtion through the ABS System (on 93.5-96 only), but not the Trac system’s ignition timing retard function. Unplugging the Trac fuse eliminates both functions, as well as the 155mph speed limiter, which works through the trac system. The fuse can be found in the main fuse box on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. It must be noted that removing the fuse will cause the TRAC light to stay on, but you’ll get used to it.
Will the TRAC system improve the cars performance?
NO. The Trac system was calibrated to improve traction in slippery conditions. It was not calibrated with performance in mind. When the Trac system senses a loss of traction, it comes on hard, cutting power drastically; this will do nothing but hurt performance. I also would not rely on the Trac system for providing stability at high speeds, if you were to loose control, it would be too slow and clumsy, and would more than likely hamper your efforts to regain control.
How can I remove the factory 155mph speed limiter?
Remove the fuse for the Trac system. The speed limiter works through the Trac throttle body.
What is the Supra TT’s top speed with the Trac fuse removed?
There is some debate on this subject. There are rumors that 180 can be achieved. But by going with the numbers, 168-172mph in stock form seems possible.
What is the Supra TT’s maximum theoretical top speed? Can it exceed 200mph with enough power?
Lets find out.
The Supra TT with the 6-speed has a stock engine redline of 6800rpm, and a 6th gear ratio of .79:1, with a rear axle ratio of 3.13:1. Now we multiply our 6th gear ratio times our rear axle ratio, and we find out our final gear ratio is 2.472:1. Now we divide 6800rpm by our total gear reduction of 2.472:1 and we find out our rear axles, and therefore wheels are spinning at 2751rpm at 6800 engine rpms.
Now we need to calculate our tire circumference. The rear tires section width it 255mm, and the sidewall’s aspect ratio is .40, so our sidewalls are 102mm. Now, to convert this to inches, we divide this by 25.4, which equal’s 4.015 inches. Now multiply this by two, since we have two sidewalls making up the total diameter, and add the wheel diameter of 17″, and we see a total diameter of 25.031 inches. Now to find out our circumference, we multiply that number times pi (3.14), and we find out the circumference is 78.59 inches, now divide that by 12 to convert to feet. And we get 6.549 feet total circumference.
Now multiply our tire’s revolving speed, by the tire’s outside circumference, and we find that the tire is covering 18,016 feet per minute, divide that by the 5280 feet in a mile, and we find we are covering 3.412 miles per minute, now multiply that by the 60 minutes in an hour, and we find we are traveling 204.7miles per hour @ 6800rpm in 6th gear. If the engines redline is increased to 7500rpm, which it often is, because of a higher flowing turbo. Then our maximum speed would be 225.8mph, given enough power of course.
For more go to Http://www.ausdriftcar.cjb.net
Fall Care for Perennials
Fall Care for Perennials
By fall, most perennials are through blooming, and by then you might be ready to throw in the towel, but there are still a few things you need to do to ensure that your perennials survive the winter. After a season of enjoying the blooms from your perennial flower garden, late fall is a time in cold-winter regions to prepare the beds for winter. Taking good care of beds in fall will help them thrive next spring and summer.
Water less. Plants need to naturally get ready for winter by hardening off (becoming accustomed to colder temperatures). You can help by cutting back on the amount of water you give them, but don’t let them completely dry out.
But water more. In dry-winter areas that don’t freeze or have much snow, water perennials once a month on a sunny, warm day to keep them alive and healthy.
Dig them. After the first frost has killed back the foliage, dig and store tender perennial bulbs such as dahlias and gladiolus that can’t survive the winter in the ground in a cold climate.
Cut them back. On perennials that have finished for the season, cut back stems to 6 to 8 inches from the ground. Compost the foliage as long as it’s not diseased.
Feed them. Fall is a good time to feed perennials by working in a 4- to 6-inch-thick layer of compost around the beds.
Mulch them. After the ground freezes, remove old mulch and replace it with hay, evergreen boughs, or floating row covers. This extra layer protects tender perennials and helps catch and hold snow, which will also insulate the bed.
In cold-winter areas, stop fertilizing perennials by midsummer to encourage them to slow their growth and harden off for winter. In warm-winter areas, fall is a good time to plant perennials. However, in winter check for signs of disease, especially during wet periods, since the plants are growing slowly and conditions are right for rotting to occur.
And no – you do not have to find space indoors for all these gigantic plants. You can; of course, over winter cannas that have been grown in pots by simply bringing them inside and letting them continue the show. It’s easy. All you need is some peat moss and a few paper bags, plus a cool, dry place to store the bulbs. Do not use plastic bags, as moisture can build up in them leading to rot. Some people save the string bags that onions and potatoes come in and use those to encourage a good airflow around the plants. You must, of course, be willing to do a bit of digging – but it’s a small price to pay for saving and increasing these beautiful plants.
Cannas, Calla lilies and Caladium, Dahlias and many other tender perennials that grow from bulbs, corms or rhizomes are quite easy to over winter. Just enjoy them until that first big frost hits. You will emerge the morning after to find a shriveled and blackened looking mess – but take heart. Cut off that sad-looking foliage leaving only an inch of stem above ground.
Then dig up the rhizomes that they are attached to. Use a digging fork and work your way carefully below the bulb being careful not to nick it – nicks and scrapes provide a possible entry for rot and infection. If you do happen to scrape something, make sure you leave that particular corm or tuber out to dry and form a protective scab. Some growers recommend dusting the wound with a cleanser.
You can leave the dirt right on them unless you are an excessively tidy soul. In that case, at least wait until it has dried and can be easily shaken off. Then you can simply toss them into a paper bag at this point and stow them away in the cool but frost-free basement until spring. If using old grocery bags, it is perhaps more prudent to add some very slightly damp peat moss to the bag so that the plants won’t dry out. This is obviously not practical with string bags and other perforated containers.
Now put them in a frost free, cool but not too damp place to spend their winter. An ideal storage place is one that maintains temperatures of between 50 and 60 degrees F.
Check them every month to make sure that they are not drying out too much. If so, moisten the peat moss just the tiniest bit or transfer those in string bags to a container with slightly dampened peat moss. You should not be able to wring the peat moss out and see anything drip from it – only to be able to sense that there is a trace of moisture there.
If you see that any of them have begun to rot or decay in any way, discard those so that they don’t infect the remaining plants.
In spring all you have to do is open the bags, shake out the plants-to-be, wash away the excess soil and plant. Cut back most perennials to about 3 inches from the ground. Any closer may damage crowns. Remove debris from the garden to help prevent diseases. Wait until spring to cut back some species, including European ginger, bishop’s hat, ferns, Lenten rose, ornamental grasses, and upright sedums. In addition to adding winter interest, some perennials over winter better if left uncut. If the growing season has been dry, water deeply in fall before the ground freezes.
Basic upkeep and care of your perennials will promote healthiness and produce better results. With some basic upkeep and care, your perennials will produce beautiful blooms and keep your garden looking beautiful over many seasons and many years.
The Ultimate Gas Furnace Troubleshooting Guide
Looking for some quick tips on how to keep your gas furnace in tip-top shape this winter? The Ultimate Gas Furnace Troubleshooting Guide will answer all of your questions, including how to turn on a furnace, how to change a furnace filter, how to test a furnace’s airflow, what to do if a furnace doesn’t ignite, and much more.
We hope you find this guide to be useful – and we hope you stay warm this winter!
A) How to Turn On Your Gas Furnace
It sounds easy, but believe it or not, many people don’t know how to turn their furnace on or off. Here’s a simple, step-by-step breakdown:
* Find the breaker for your furnace. It’s part of the electrical panel, which is usually located in your basement, utility room or garage. The breaker should be clearly labeled with a gas furnace sticker. Turn the breaker to the “On” position.
* Locate and turn on the furnace switch. It is typically somewhere near the bottom of your basement stairs – sometimes in the ceiling, sometimes in the furnace room itself, and usually at eye level or slightly higher.
* Set your thermostat. Check that the furnace is on and then make sure that the selector switch is set to “Heat”. Finally, adjust your set point temperature, and that’s it – your furnace is turned and ready to heat your home!
B) How to Check and Change Your Furnace Filter
Proper maintenance of your furnace filter can help optimize airflow from your furnace, which will keep it running efficiently and economically during the coldest months of the year. To prevent burnout of your furnace parts, we recommend inspecting your filter monthly and changing it every three to six months. Here’s how it’s done:
* Begin by carefully opening the furnace’s external rack or panel door.
* Remove the furnace filter by sliding it out. Take a look at the filter to see if there’s any darkness or discoloration.
* If you can’t see through the filter, it’s definitely time for a new one. Slide the new filter into the furnace, making sure that it is installed in the direction of the airflow. And that’s it – you’re done!
C) How to Test Your Furnace’s Airflow
If a room in your house is too cold during the winer, it might be because your furnace isn’t supplying enough warm air through the registers in that particular room. There’s a simple way to test the airflow from your furnace registers to make sure they are working properly — the garbage bag airflow test.
The test is a quick way to estimate airflow by determining how long it takes to fill a common plastic garbage bag. While it is not a precise measurement, it is better than no measurement at all and will give you a good ideas as to whether you need to call a technician to look at your ductwork.
To do the garbage bag airflow test:
* Tape the mouth of the garbage bag to a coat hanger or piece of cardboard to keep it open.
* Crush the bag flat and place it over the register or exhaust hood.
* Count the number of seconds it takes for the bag to fully inflate.
If the inflation time is:
* 2 seconds = 37 L/s (75 cfm)
* 4 seconds = 20 L/s (40 cfm)
* 10 seconds = 10 L/s (20 cfm)
If the measured airflow is less than 10 L/s, the furnace is delivering only a small amount of heat to a room and needs to be further inspected to determine why the heat is not going through.
The garbage bag airflow test is also useful if you have changed your heating or cooling systems or have made major renovations to your house.
D) If Your Gas Furnace Fails to Ignite
If you can hear that your furnace is on and the fan is running, but all you’re getting is cold air, you likely have ignition failure. Try resetting your furnace by turning the switch to off for at least ten seconds, then, turning it on again. If that doesn’t do the trick, give your HVAC contractor a call.
E) Furnace Troubleshooting Checklist
Think your gas furnace has quit? You could save yourself the cost of a no-heat service call by checking the following:
* Is the furnace switch in the on position? It may have been turned off by mistake.
* Is the thermostat properly set to the “heat” position and the temperature set to your normal heat setting?
* Is the furnace venting blocked by snow or ice? If so, try to remove the blockage.
* Are the programmable thermostat batteries fresh?
* Is the circuit breaker in the electric panel in the proper position?
* Is the furnace door properly closed?
* Has the filter been changed recently? If you’ve checked everything on the list and your furnace still isn’t working, give your local HVAC contractor a call, and they’ll get your furnace back up and running as soon as possible.
F) How to Properly Remove Vent Blockages
If you become aware of a furnace problem that might involve the exterior vent, do a quick inspection and see if any snow, ice or some common household item might be blocking the vent. If so, before removing the obstruction, head inside first and turn the off the power to your furnace. Now, you can safely clear away whatever is blocking your exterior vent. Once you’re done, turn your furnace back on using either the breaker or the switch.
A lack of airflow through the furnace’s interior vents could mean your furnace fan motor has seized. If this has happened, don’t try to fix the problem yourself – contact the expert furnace repair technicians at your local HVAC contractor.
G) How to Stop Air Leaks and Prevent Heat Loss
Air leaks account for a significant amount of a home’s heat loss in winter – resulting in increased heating costs as your furnace constantly tries to replace the warm air that has escaped from your home. Fixing these leaks will save you money on your heating bills.
To stop leaks around windows and doors:
* Remove the trims carefully.
* Fill large cracks or gaps with foam backer rod, oakum, or expanding polyurethane foam.
* Replace the trims and caulk along the edges.
To stop leaks along baseboards:
* Caulk along the seams without removing the baseboard.
* Remove the baseboard and caulk between the wall and the floor.
To stop leaks around electrical outlets on outside walls:
* Turn off power to the outlet and remove the outlet cover.
* Install a foam insulating pad.
* Replace the outlet cover turn the power back on to the outlet.
To stop leaks in an unfinished basement:
* Caulk under the basement sill plate and around the joists with a rubber-based caulking or acoustical sealant.
* Caulk any gaps where ducts enter a wall or ceiling.
* Insulate ducts with preformed wraps or duct-taped insulation batts.
To stop leaks in your attic:
* Seal any cracks.
* Weather strip your attic door and close it tightly.
H) If a Gas Smell is Detected
In the unlikely event that you smell something like a rotten egg smell, you could have a gas leak. Don’t turn on any electrical switches and open all of your windows. Then, go to a neighbour’s house and contact your HVAC contractor or your local gas provider immediately.
Asthma: Emphysema vs Asthma
In the past emphysema has been seen as a death sentence. Your doctor or specialist may have explained to you that this condition is progressive, and will eventually stop you from breathing at all. You may have been told that new drugs are becoming available all the time, and new research is happening.
If you are youngish, then you may have been told there is a chance for a lung transplant later. Some doctors will simply say to make the most of the rest of your life while you still can.
While this is pretty good advice to follow anyway, there are some really interesting other things to know about. There is a theory that smoking causes emphysema. There are literally thousands of people who have emphysema, but have never smoked ó ever. They have never been exposed to even passive in any dose; they have the same condition as a ‘two-packs-a-day-for-thirty-years’ smoker.
Other people have what scientists describe as alpha antitrypsin deficiency, which is a genetic code that produces less of an enzyme that is needed in your lungs than ‘normal’ people. The interesting thing is that in the vast majority of these cases, the emphysemic condition is not seen until later in life ó even though the genetic pattern that says there should be emphysema has been there since birth.
What is the missing factor that explains what is going on?
The Missing Factor
The missing factor is the depth of breathing of each person. The only difference between asthma and emphysema is where it occurs in your breathing system. Very simply put, asthma happens in the airpipes [called 'bronchi'], whereas emphysema occurs in the bulb-like sacs at the end of the airpipes called ‘alveoli’. Asthma is restriction of airflow by either squeezing the airpipes with special muscles, or blocking it up with sticky mucus, or both. Emphysema is the clogging up of the alveoli at the end of the airpipes with mucus.
The restriction of breathing in both conditions has the same cause.
Your body is try to restrict the airflow to prevent further loss of carbon dioxide [CO2]. From other articles written on Asthma you will know that if you lose too much CO2, then your body will not work, and you will die. The restriction of your airflow in asthma and emphysema is simply your body’s way of forcing you to stop losing so much CO2.
Smoking
Smoking is a double whammy for emphysema. The deep breathing associated with smoking causes the loss of more CO2, which induces your mucus factories [special glands that produce mucus or 'phlegm'] to increase their output. Added to this is the effect of bringing foreign particles into your lungs. This also causes an increase in mucus production [to clean up the bits of tar and debris]. The effect is a huge increase in mucus and it is no wonder that alveoli [and bronchi] clog up.
An additional effect of bringing all of this cigarette muck into your lungs is to increase the chance of your lung cells mutating and giving you cancer. The other effect of smoking [while we are bashing this silly habit!] is that it introduces hot, dry air to your lungs. Your lungs are wet and sloppy and they function best this way. When they dry out or are heat affected they are easily damaged, and more likely to become cancerous or infected.
To conclude my tirade on smoking if you are addicted to nicotine, then find another way to get it into your body. If you must do this via your lungs then use a similar device to what marijuana or opium smokers use a pipe or ‘bong’. This drags the smoke filled air through water which ‘washes’ it a little, and cools it a lot. The amount of gunk that gets into your lungs is decreased and you can actually see it in the foul smelling water that is left. Of course to use these devices you have to breathe very deeply, so you will still lose CO2, and still probably get emphysema but you may have a lower chance of getting cancer of the lungs, lips, mouth or throat.
If you must continue to smoke, then at least bear in mind the lessons contained in this article. You will be able to reduce the symptoms of emphysema if you follow this breathing model because you will be stopping one of the factors that produce the symptoms. The other will still exist, and you will continue to do damage until you stop.
Keep Firewood Dry With an Easy to Build Firewood Shed
The main reasons to build firewood shed is to protect the wood from the elements of the weather. It gives the wood a chance to dry so it can burn properly. Its best to allow the wood to dry out before stacking but if that is not an option, a firewood shed will help to protect it and let it dry.
Location of the firewood shed is very important. Its best to build it close to the door of your home that you will be using to retrieve the wood. You don’t want to put it far back in the yard, because it will just make it difficult to get to the shed. Trudging through snow or wet grass will just make it not as appealing to have that fire.
When building a firewood shed, you need to have a raised floor to keep the wood from getting damp and wet. It’s very important to have air flow through the stacked wood, to keep it nice and dry. If it gets to wet, the wood will rot and decompose.
When you build a firewood shed, the roof of the shed needs to be slanted, so that the rain or snow flows off the roof away from the wood. The ground around the shed should also have a slant away from the wood, so that the water doesn’t collect on the wood.
Usually, when you build a firewood shed, there are only three sides to the shed. One side is open, to create airflow to the wood, so it can dry properly. When placing the shed, be sure to have the open side not facing where most of the prevailing winds occur. This will keep the wood protected from wind and rain.
When the colder months occur, nothing is more cozy and relaxing to be able to sit by a warm fire. You will be glad you built your firewood shed, when the cold winds are howling outside!